What gear do I need to fly-fish?
by Dean Growdon
This is a question I’m often asked, but the answer can be about as clear as mud. There are many fly rods, reels, lines, flies, and other tools and accessories, many of which are designed for very specific purposes.
For someone looking to get into the sport, the options can be both confusing and overwhelming. In this week’s article, I’ll describe the basics of fly-fishing equipment and offer some sensible advice on equipping yourself or a family member.
Fly rods
Fly rods are sized by “weight” and come in a variety of lengths. A very simplified description would be: the lower the weight, the lighter the action (more flexible rod), which is used for smaller fish and smaller flies in lighter wind conditions; the higher the weight, the heavier the action (stiffer rod), which is used for larger fish, larger flies, and/or windier conditions.
A couple of examples would be a 3-weight rod for small panfish, small trout, and similar species, and a 10-weight rod for fly-fishing large saltwater species with large flies in windy conditions.
The best all-around rods in our region tend to be 5-weight or 6-weight rods. These rods can be used on streams, rivers, and lakes. If you primarily fish stillwater (lakes), then a 6-weight is probably the better choice.
The 6-weight can handle the larger fish in some of our lakes and reservoirs and allow you to land and release them, if you so choose, in a timelier fashion, improving the odds that the fish will survive. The 6-weight also has more power to cast into the wind and to cast heavier multiple-fly and indicator (bobber) rigs.
If you primarily fish rivers and streams, a 5-weight is probably the better choice for a first rod. The 5-weight is often considered the best all-around fly rod. It can be used in stillwater applications but is also an excellent choice for streams and rivers.
The action is light enough to present dry flies effectively, but heavy enough to cast indicators and nymphs.
As far as length goes, 9′ is the standard, but longer rods in lengths of 9’6″ and even 10′ are becoming more popular. Longer rods can improve casting distance and reach and help keep your flies out of rocks and bushes behind you, but the extra length also adds swing weight, which can increase fatigue in your casting arm. For a new angler, a 9′ rod is a good and readily available option.
As far as brands go, there is a wide range of manufacturers and prices. I own a variety of rods from different manufacturers and at different price points—Orvis, Scott, Echo, T.F.O., Redington, Hardy, etc. I have a few that I use all the time and some that I use in very specific situations, but the ones I use most often are a Scott 9’6″ 6-weight and a Hardy 9′ 5-weight. These two rods have an action that matches my casting style and have brought many fish to my net.
The best way to figure out which fly rod works for you is to go to a fly shop and try some out or take a fly-fishing class that lets you cast a variety of rods. Each person is different, and it is best to find what works for you.
Reels
The primary purpose of a fly reel is to hold your line. Most of the time, you will have line lying at your feet or in the water in front of you, and the reel simply holds the excess. When you hook a fish, you will primarily strip the line to land it rather than reel it in as you would with a standard baitcaster or spinning reel. Occasionally, you may hook a fish and end up using the reel to fight it.
The two primary types of reels are click-pawl reels and drag-system reels. Click-pawl reels do not have a drag system; you use the palm of your hand to apply pressure to the spool to provide “drag,” whereas drag reels have an adjustable drag system to control the pressure on the spool and the speed at which line goes out.
I tend to use click-pawl reels on lighter-weight rods (1–3 weight) and drag reels for everything else. When choosing a reel, just make sure it is sized to hold the weight of the line you’re using.
Lines
I could write for days about the variety of lines available, their specific purposes, tapers, and so on. For a first line, I recommend a floating, weight-forward line. This line is the most versatile and will meet your needs in most situations.
Lines are sized by weight just like fly rods, and you need to ensure that the weight of your fly line matches the weight of your rod—a 5-weight rod should have a 5-weight line. Fly line is one area where you should try to get the best you can afford. A high-quality line can make a huge difference in castability and line management, as well as shaping your overall experience.
In addition to the fly line, you will need backing that goes on the reel first and is attached to the butt of your fly line, and leaders that attach to the end of your fly line, to which your flies are tied. A good way to choose a fly line, leaders, and related items is to seek out a professional at a fly shop to guide you through the various options.
Flies
Flies tend to be specific to the waters you are fishing and the bug hatches occurring at that time. Many fly shops offer online fishing reports that identify current hatches and the flies they recommend. Again, your best bet with flies is to seek out a shop with experienced staff to guide you.
Other items
Hemostats or small pliers are handy for pinching barbs for catch-and-release and unhooking fish. Nippers or clippers are essential for cutting your line. You will also need a fly box to hold your flies and something to carry it, along with tools, water, etc. There are a variety of fishing vests, packs, and other systems to choose from.
Some things you may not absolutely need but that can be very useful include waders so you can get into the water without getting wet, a wading staff to help you wade safely in slippery conditions, a first-aid kit, and an emergency communication device.
I know this list looks extensive, but a little bit of research and some smart shopping can get you into the sport without breaking the bank. In the end, I’ve found the investment well worth it, because fly-fishing has taken me to many beautiful places that I likely wouldn’t have seen otherwise.
